Fashion is an industrial and cultural phenomenon that is deeply intertwined with the environmental, social and economic challenges of the 21st century. As global efforts increasingly focus on transitioning from a linear economic model of production and consumption to one grounded in circularity and sustainability (encompassing environmental, social and economic dimensions), pressure is mounting on the fashion industry—a key player in the global economy—to undergo a significant paradigm shift.

The most notable transformation of the fashion industry began in the late 20th century with the rise of a business model characterised by rapid production cycles, fleeting trends, low-cost garments and large-scale production: fast fashion. The shift to this consumption model was primarily driven by changes in consumer behaviour and increased fashion consciousness, coupled with the shift of globalised mass-production retailers from a production- to a market-centric approach. The characteristic rapid delivery of (and demand for) ‘high fashion at low prices’ within a ‘throwaway’ market paradigm intensified with the emergence of e-commerce, fostered by digitalisation and the COVID-19 pandemic.

While the fast fashion model has contributed to the democratisation and globalisation of fashion, technological innovations and economic growth, it has also generated a host of environmental, social and ecological challenges. Among the most pressing concerns are its contributions to climate change, the overuse of raw materials (including agricultural land and fossil fuels), water depletion and pollution, chemical-intensive production processes, and the incineration of synthetic plastic fibres. Notably, the negative consequences of fast fashion are disproportionately borne by the Global South.

The Global South is comprised of economically unstable, underdeveloped nations characterised by low per capita income, significant disparities in living standards and limited access to resources. Conversely, the Global North encompasses affluent, technologically advanced nations with robust infrastructure, macroeconomic and political stability and higher living standards. The stark asymmetries in the fast fashion industry between these regions—especially concerning sourcing, waste generation and disposal—exacerbate and reinforce inequalities in global governance, socio-ecological and economic development, and international relations. These disparities contribute to shaping production and consumption patterns in ways that hinder equitable and just environmental, social and economic progress.

Building on these considerations, our article examined the uneven distribution of fast fashion’s unsustainable impacts, through distinct yet complementary lenses: (i) the market interactions between consumers (i.e., demand side) and producers (i.e., supply side), and (ii) a macro geographical perspective, using a Global North–Global South framework. In the latter framework, the Global North and Global South were understood as two poles between which the exchange (or lack thereof) of initiatives, knowledge and strategies could occur among consumers and producers. To explore these dynamics, we employed a systematic literature review focused on publications addressing: (i) consumers, producers or both; and (ii) the Global North, the Global South or a comparison of the two regions. Our research questions aimed at investigating how the empirical divide between the Global North and Global South is reflected in the economic literature on fast fashion, specifically in relation to the initiatives, interactions, behaviours and strategies of consumers and producers as they engage with or address the phenomenon of fast fashion.

Our findings revealed significant gaps in the literature, in terms of both bibliographic attributes and content, suggesting differing levels of scholarly attention and framings of the topic. For instance, most studies focused on the Global North, while considerably fewer explored the Global South. However, our results also indicated that consumers and producers in both the Global North and the Global South share concerns regarding the current and future condition of the fast fashion industry, bringing strategies and initiatives related to fashion and sustainability into focus.

Between the Global North and Global South, significant differences are apparent in socio-economic structures, consumption and production patterns, access to resources and environmental impacts. These disparities present challenges to the effective translation of efforts into viable solutions. Factors such as information asymmetries between the Global North and Global South, intra- and inter-regional economic interactions, varying levels of awareness, and distinct economic, environmental and social interventions—particularly in the context of 'onshoring' versus 'offshoring' dynamics—further complicate this process.

Existing inequalities in global governance and economic relations between the Global North and Global South are mirrored in each region’s approaches to achieving sustainability in the fashion industry. In the Global North, circular and sustainable initiatives are often strictly aligned with economic considerations, and market strategies play a central role in driving the transition to a circular economy, primarily motivated by competitiveness and profitability. The most frequently discussed topics in this context relate to investment in and the development of new technologies and systems, often with the support of structured political guidance. Conversely, in the Global South, sustainable initiatives tend to be more fragmented and country-specific, frequently emphasising social and ecological factors such as locality, culture, traditional values and the relationship with nature.

Overall, our analysis revealed that the literature from both regions reflects broader global inequalities in governance, environmental responsibility and economic relations. Achieving a just, equitable and inclusive transition towards a circular fashion industry, with economic growth and sustainability harmonised, will require a fundamental reconsideration of the links between business, society and nature. Moreover, it is necessary to address the persistent challenges of unsustainable consumption and production. Global adoption of these strategies will be essential for redesigning and rebalancing economic and social relations between the Global North and Global South, while fostering sustainable and socio-ecologically equitable production and consumption patterns.

Future research should continue to challenge and address the entrenched power dynamics within the traditional economic paradigm that exists between these regions. Particular attention should be placed on the role of governance in shaping consumer–producer interactions and regional imbalances. Such research could yield valuable insights for empirical applications to progress global sustainable development goals and support new and existing collaborative initiatives embracing all three sustainability pillars.